How to repair all LED polyls
LED light is often used for lighting in residential premises. Those will actively replace other types of sources with light - lamps with a lit flask and a gas discharge. Light-emitting diode imat on - good quality on svetlinata, those sa on - izdzhlivi and on - bezopasni. Despite the long life on the semiconductor, the lighting devices are still squeamish. In the basin, we will also look at typical malfunctions and repairs on LED polyls yourself.
Containment: 1. Typical malfunctions on polylays with replaceable lamps and how to fix them 2. Misfunctioning LED panels with non-replaceable LEDs
Typical malfunctions on polylays with replaceable lamps and how to fix them
We will bury some with a polyley, which is equipped with a plinth. In tyah krushkite, intended for 220 V with the base E27 (E14), just screw it up and replace it forestry. Vsshchnost tova sa slander the bodies, which have crawled from the wreckage from the slashed zhichka. Choose the main malfunctions on such a lighting device and cause, which causes them.
Ima LED polylays with GU10 socket. Lamp with such a base for a purpose for variable voltage from 220 V.

LED pouring for lids with GU10 base
Protect the lamps do not shine or flash
It is necessary to check the correctness of the crankshaft, if you change it from a known working base and save the voltage. Ako vsichko e next to her, togawa checks the correctness of the pre-switch and kabelevaneto. Stigame up to the terminal block on the lamp and determine the voltage on the contact, when the switch is turned on. Use a multiset or a test lamp for Celta.At this time, check the connection to the conductor in the distribution block and contact to the pre-switch.

Tryabva yes ima voltage on these clamps, sometimes the switch is turned on.
The next step is to check the correctness for the cabled on the polylay. Check the conductor for damage and gi izdarpvame easily, for example, assure you that when you secure it sensibly, you should put it on the cassette.
Switch off the electricity in the switchboard. One shrakvane on the switcher is not enough. If something is wrong or defective, or if it is turned out to be somehow excluded, it may even be under tremendous pressure!
The next step is a cassette. Mostly crossed "bolest" on the patronite with a cut on Edison e loosened or scorched on the central and page (aka ima taqv) contact. Izklyuchvame polyley, extinguish krukata and carefully check the central contact on the cartridge. You don’t tryabva yes, watch out for oxidization and fumes. In the picture, the contact with the lampat is more bad and back and all the heat. With the course of time, everything is burnt out.

Izgarene on contact on cassette
Now tryabva and check it is tightened on the propeller, fasten the contact to the cassette. Those tryabva and sa good stegnati and do not darken or burn. Some models of cartridge chambers use a screw instead of a screw. Ako sa loosen up, togava cassetata more tryabva and change it completely.

Check for tightness on these screw
Checking, scrape on the conductors. Povecheto cassette sa screwi. Suffice it for a routine check and lightly patted - all the trembling and being tucked up, do not tremble and sa loosen up or squeeze out from under the washer.
And the last few problems with budgetary patrons.The middle contact is directed from weakly springy metal. With the flow for a while, it went back, not reaching the base on the lampata. The last soil and the moment or dory do not shine at all. That se "processing" with a screwdriver. Pregvame central contact, such a thing is achieved.

Pregvane on vyvisnalia central contact on the chuck
GU10 ima is like a problem - contact potvane. Ako krushkata hang in the nest, togawa contact sa obviously weakened. Izvadame go and lightly contact the cartridge with an awl.

Contact tryabva yes sale lightly fire along the railing on the arrow
Lampite zagaryat barzo
LED crash every time it fails from the edge for the warranty period. The reason may be that the product is of poor quality, but there are often problems due to incorrect operation of the lamp. Some razgledame second option. Such a lamp can barzo and burn out for the sake of following:
- bad contact in the distribution box;
- malfunctions on the preswitcher;
- malfunctions on the cartridge (burnt, oxidized, etc.);
- increased voltage in the mrezhat;
- pregryavane.
Distributors of cutia... Decoction kutiite, who will be dissuaded for storing it for a lampat, and checking your condition for a cable vrazka. Nothing shaking, but burn, but behold, or yes, stop.

In takawa kutia, you can’t and ima kindly contact by definition.
Pre-inclusion. There may be a problem here, some of the contacts on the switch are burnt out, and in poor quality connection to protect the conductors, you can plug the switch on the switch. Check, as necessary, loosen and clean or change the pre-switcher.

The switch is obviously defective, but it is clear that it has its own function
Cartridge. Veche obsjdikhme malfunctions, vyrzani from the cassette to the previous section. Nyama and repeat it.
Increased stress. Determine the voltage in contact with the multicet. We correct some measurements at different times of the day. If the voltage is too high (more from 230 - 235 V), then there are two possibilities:
- Get in touch with your electricity supplier and let them fix the problem.

The intervoltage is obviously high
- Buy a lamp, intended for high working voltage. When the LED source is bright, the cost is at the top of the base and packaged.

The tasi lamp can work with a voltage of 220 to 240 V
Pregryavane. Usually own LED polylays with blind senki se blasquat with tozi problems. If you install a cap with a power higher than the one used in such a lamp, it is more difficult to preheat and more dilapidated. First of all, we will purchase a backup lamp, we will study the documentation for the lamp and install the power on the lamp, transferred from the manufacturer.

In such a lampata, which is solid, it is powerful, it is warmer.
Weakly shine
Chesto krushkata soil and burn with fuel fuel. What could be the reason:
- insufficient voltage in the media;
- defective LED storage (driver);
- LED burnout;
- Loss of contact in the diverter cuties and dilute the cuties.
Low voltage... Measure the tension in the exit from the multiset. Ako e a lot in a low way from normalnoto, kanim maystor. Contrary to Comrade, you can let yourself be seen such a paint on the alert, without multitset. Enough to eat and look at the brightness of other body lights, especially those that are used by lamps from a lit lamp.

The tension in the media is obviously underestimated
When the voltage is low, the LED lamps are not bright when the fuel is full.Usually in such a situation it is a budgetary crank with a primitive driver for the format on the hardening capacitor and the chief diode light is weak. Lamp with normally lowered voltage on the driver or continue and work normally, or turn off.

A lamp with such a driver shines when the fuel is full when the voltage is low
Chauffeur. Ako ima a lot of sins, the driver does not supply enough current to the LED. One of the options is more damage to the current converter or hardening capacitor. Another malfunction on the block behind the dimming (behind the dimmable caps). In Tozi case, the semiconductors will burn out, but weakly. Aco ste radio engineer, check it out and correct it. Not - change the cyalata krushka.
Light-emitting diode... If there are many semiconductors and LEDs, they are connected one by one or the other starts. One of the optional strings is slightly in series with semiconductors and wired in parallel. In this case, if a single diode damages it, the chain is out of gas. Nyama and repair the device.
Cables and substrates... Loshoto usukvane or burnt out shoes can have a lot of contact resistance and often ruin it when you hit it.
Tova this case is in a row, ty kato resistance is burnt out, becoming an ordinary “pluv”, instead of yes, it is supported on a stable field. Check it out for yourself, but find it, probably without asking for it.
Svetva, who is switched off
Lighten up a little in the polyline to turn on the dori but the key is out. Osventova, somehow with full brightness, so with full of fuel. Cause, for the sake of koito lampata from the fire, the trace is excluded, and follow:
- defective cabling with a switch to a neutral conductor;
- The lamp is defective with the switch in the neutral conductor.
Spore standardize the switch for a fixed lighting device and installed when switching to a phase conductor. But not all the electrical engineering, which is installed by the cable workers, is holding on to the stones. Preksvach, installed when preksvane on a neutral conductor, and in a state, imagine a lot from the outside. For example, dori is excluded from polyley mozhe da vie shokira. Another miracle is the radiance of the dori kogato lampata, which is visibly excluded.
Defective cabling... Look at the diagram along the bottom. With the pre-switch installed in the neutral conductor, the lamp is permanently stored. The switch is switched off, no current, the lamp is not switched off.

Iztichaneto on the earth can yes nakara lampata yes shine, sometimes it is excluded
But as soon as they got out to the ground in the area on the cable between the lamp and the switch (markiran in the cherveno), now they appear and the lamp is more light. Osventova, tova is not a seeker, without fail a full earthly union. For operation at 7 W LED coil, a current of 30 mA is sufficient.
Ako krushkata ima is an ordinary driver, a quenching capacitor is swollen at the top, then it’s harder to back up and shine brightly at a much lower current.
Cause for a trivial leak: old cabling with worn out insulation, “successfully” hammered a piron into the stenata, wet walls and distribution boxes (floods from the house), high humidity in the room, counted with old cabling and bad installation.
polyley defective... It’s better than the modern metal polyleys tryabva and the earth. Yes, let's assume that the polyline is grounded and the switch is placed in the prekvane on the neutral conductor. Ako last in polyleya, shut up the metal body at the top, then the lamps still shine until the switch is turned off.

In case of such a malfunction and the switch to “zero”, the lamp still shines
The diagram shows that nothing depends on the position on the switch. Fazata, "preminavascha" prez lampata, more premier grounding conductor, something else brought to the burnt out lampata.
Flash, when the switch is switched off
Let's take a look at why the LED lamp is turned off for a moment. There are a lot of things. Ima two reasons:
- defective cabling, sometimes switching to “zero”;
- including lighting.
Electrical installations... Think for a leak, for some we say a little in grief. Ako tokt on iztichane is not enough, but the krushkata sunk down, togava cha yama and light - neiniyat driver yama and starter. Tosi current is usually more stable and charges the condenser in the verigata.
The voltage in the capacitor is gradually increased. In the meantime, we have reached the cost, enough for starting the driver, turn it on and keep the LEDs on and off, using energy, saved from the capacitor. Tazi energy is small, the condenser is thinned out and the driver is turned off. Svetlinata for a moment at a time. Repeat the next process, forcing the lighter and a moment periodically.
Backlight. If the switch is equipped with a backlight, then when it is crushed on a cover with a lit button with LED or fluorescent, we can get and periodically flashing light. The reason for this is a small current, unfailingly interrupting the prez krushkat. Look at the diagram along the way.

Scheme on the wired on the lighting rod prez key with clarification
From the diagram to see if S1 is switched off, then change the lamp to lamp La1, current limiting resistor R1 and gas discharge lamp for illumination L1, for some reason I should shine. Tozi current is small and an ordinary lamp with a lighted litter dori nyama and go white.But it’s not enough to smooth out the condenser for water supply, but it’s safe and it’s cool. In an extreme estimate, La1 is still a moment away, somehow in the previous case. How can you tear yourself away from your problems? The first option is to turn off the backlight, which will turn off the lamp L1 or the LED from the switch.
Misfunctioning LED panels with non-replaceable LEDs
Changed from repair to LED polylays, equipment with replaceable covers. Let's get some LED watering from the LED fence.

It is not possible to change the covers in such a way - instead of installing LED modules
As a start, let's look at a typical diagram for a conventional LED illuminator with a graded source on a bright line.

Scheme for finding a simple LED illuminator with a single group of LEDs
The principle of not doing a good job is simple. The intervoltage of all supplying to the module is stored, some of the LEDs are stored on the module with the required voltage and current. Ako will pour the name of the module a little, then the driver is separated from the tyah e installer. Tova you allow and control separately turn on the LED group.

Scheme for polylays with slightly independent groups of LEDs
Another possibility is a remote control (RC) module, which, depending on the design, on the lighting body can turn on or off a group (or just a lamp), and change colors, brightness, etc., which can be used without remote control.

Lighting chain with remote control for three groups of LEDs
Base faults on lamps from tosi type sa follow:
- vodacht do not work;
- defective remote control (what ima is);
- defective module for remote control (aka ima taqv);
- one or a group of LEDs and outcasts.
Ako polyleyat is excluded, you will be sure that it is stored.For yes, send the goods, check for intermittent voltage at the input terminal on the lighting rod using a voltmeter or multimeter, switched on in the response mode on the measurement.
Razbrahme vzlite, let's go ahead and check and repair them.
Checking and changing to zashranvaneto
We will save some with LED. In LED illuminating bodies, use a current stabilizer, in any case (sorry and common polyleys) work as a voltage stabilizer. Otkrivame, what is in front of us is a stabilizer for current or voltage.
Stabilizer for current or voltage
Characteristics for water supply are available in friendly documentation and for kutiyata on the device. Ostava yes gi analysirame.

Type and characterization on the deposited ordinarily sa reference to kutiyat
Think for the device on the picture on the mountain. Characteristics on Tozi otlyavo sa somehow following:
- save voltage - 85-265 V (sharply);
- initial voltage - 12-26 V (constantly);
- output current - 300 mA ± 5%.
Now there is some and razgledame stored, it is clearly shown:
- save voltage - 100-240 V (sharply);
- initial voltage - 12 V ± 5% (constantly);
- output current - 1.5 A;
- initial power - 18 watts.
Please, pay attention to the fact that on the driver the initial voltage is indicated from the girth, and only from the ground with an accuracy of 5%. On the second device, the voltage is exactly set - 12 V ± 5%. Tova assumed that the current stabilizer is weak, and the voltage stabilizer is clear. Prviyat the driver still supporting the current of the product from 300 mA, which will change the voltage to the top of it in determining the range at its own price. The second device will also deliver exactly 12 V. 1.5 A is the maximum current you can deliver.
Correctness check
With the regulator on tension, everything is simple.Turn on the lamp and measure the initial voltage on the drivers. Ako dissuaded from asking for a specification (in our case 12 V), togawa will save the work block. In Tozi, the case is a broken wind and shine brightly. The current consumption from stored is still approximately 500-600 mA.
Segashnyat stabilizer is complicated. It is important that you make sure that it is stored while maintaining the correct current and that you cannot direct it from the measurement to the voltage. If the LED module is defective, the initial voltage in some models of the driver can be generally yes not - if the product is damaged, those preminate in protection and this is excluded. For yes, we will check the stabilizer for current, the imam needs from the goods. Let's calculate some according to the formula:
Natovarvana resistance (Ohm) = Average input voltage at PSU (V) / output current (A)
For our protection of resistance, it is still somehow following on the natovarvane: 19 (average between 12 and 26) / 0.3 = 63 ohms. In this case, the power is dissipated by the power with the goods on the goods is still approximately 6 W, but for a short-term test you can take a resistor and a small power - 1-2 W. Ako current prez natvarvashchiya resistor in accordance with the specified in the specification (in our case 300 mA), then the work is stored.
How do you replace
Razbrahme, what can be stored for LED polylays and can be somehow stabilized for current, and for voltage. Tova e parvoto and nai - an important condition, some tryabva and all spazva when trying to replace a substitute. Stop searching for sa in the valley. Ako imame voltage stabilizerto, togawa:
- The voltage at the output of the turbulence must be within the range of the input voltage to the instrument.
- The initial voltage on the new device is shaking exactly and the response to the initial voltage is damaged.
- Izkhodniyat current (power) on a new driver tryabva yes bde not a little from tozi, some old may yes osiguri.
If you want to save the ss current stabilization, criteria for choosing s follow:
- The voltage in contact e is in the range of the input voltage to the device.
- Exit current to the new device, avoid current from damage.
- The coverage of the initial voltage on the new driver is minimally different from the voltage on the old storage unit.
Violating any of these conditions can lead to serious problems. In nai-kindness, the case will be polyleyat yama and “more lively”; In most cases, we will burn out the LED matrix or driver.
Important! Do not store the LED from the electronic transformer. The last one gave a changeable tension. It is not suitable for storing on the LED and it will burn out again. Such a device is used by itself for storing on a lamp with a pressurized switch with low voltage.

Tozi transformer is 12 V and costs 8 A, but the voltage at the expense of negligence is expendable.
Checking on the block for control on the radio
Now let's talk about polyleys with remote control. Imat is equipped with a radio relay, which allows you to control and operate the lighting device with remote control. Such a relay can and can be somehow nay-excuse me (turning on / off), such and multi-channel, for some reason you allow and control separate groups of lamps. Ima device with brightness control, programmable turn-on / turn-off times, etc.
In the section "Faults on floor-mounted LED panels with non-replaceable LEDs", you can see scheme for led polyol with three-channel lifeless module for control.Let's take one as an example.

Lifeless three-channel control module with remote control
Somehow you can see in the picture, the scheme on the connection is not quite right, it’s exactly like falling from the glare on the mountain. Attached is the voltage protection of the black and red conductor, and the fazata (red) is stored the key, which serves as an exception for the lighting rod in time for support.
Group lamps (generally 3) with black (general) and yellow, white, blue (L1, L2, L3) conductors. The voltage at the terminals L1, L2, L3 is 220 V, therefore, in our circuit, instead of a lamp, we use LED drivers, which protect the semiconductor modules.
How do you check the sound on the radio module?
Let's start with remote control. Measure the tension on the battery. Tosi model is made from a 12 volt battery A23. Ako the warning is the next, most likely the problem is in the polyley. Stigame to the radio module, with a multiset check the intervoltage on the black and red conductors. isn't that one? The lamp is not receiving protection. Checking the cable and the switch on the stenat. Ima? Continue forward. The checker was given a warning that when you appeared on the radio module, you would press the response button on the remote control. Izmervame on the clemet is black and yellow, black and white and black and blue.
However, if it does not appear or disappear on the lead conductor or on the rub (the group of lamps is constantly on), the module must still be replaced. Ako vsichko e, then the problem is not in the radio module, but in the driver for the response channel or in the LED module.
From what do you lead when changing to the radio module? Naturally, not e model. Kogato tarsim analogue, more interested in:
- Save voltage... The voltage is on the exit of the trebva and be in the range, it is indicated in the specification for the radio module.
- Broy channels... Optimal - Kato is not successful, but they can be thrown differently. It is allowed to save such and such a single-channel device by linking it to a group of lamps.
- Power for pre-inclusion of goods per channel... The power, transferred from the channel to the radio module, is shaking and there is not much from the power to the driver.
- Initial voltage per channel… It is usually predetermined that at the output to the radio module, it is set to protect the voltage, but if you wish, you can set the device from a different voltage source or from a subformat to normally close / open the relay contact. For yes, use such a model, more seriously and reexamine the schemat for the connected mu polyley.
How do you intend, take it up and replace the burned-out LED
Nyakolko think for diagnostics and repair on LED modules. The same line is connected from the LED, connected in series, contrary to other modules, consisting of some of the same line, connected in parallel through current limiters. In any case, our task is to let the LED be unsuccessful, somehow preventing light from shining on the line.
Tarsim defective LED
Some use a tester (for the preferred indicator). When digitizing devices, the voltage on the sondite may not be sufficient for igniting the LEDs from a high power with a high voltage. Turn on the digital device in the mode for the diode test, it shows - in the mode for measuring for high resistance.
Nie narichame all the LED in the doorway. Ako light-emitting diodes in one from tyah, that can and be crawled.When typing that light, a lot is weak, but then, in a good way, check with a little around lightening.

Tozi led e ok
However, without showing a sign on the stomach, the voltage on the sonite on the device is also low. Not suitable for our purposes.
Ako nyamate suitable multitset under raka, you can use another method. Turn on the light source in the mrejata and with the jumper for a short (!) Svyarzvame on the caso all the way from the LED. The trail of the cato module is livelier, because the LED is defective. The only downside to this method is that it can’t be caused by a fault, because the diode burned out a little. Tova e rowkost, but se sluchva.
Ima and friend, the safe and gentle method. We supply a voltage of about 5-9 V to the LED through a current limiting resistor of 500-1000 ohms. At the same time, position on the sondit the diode still shines brightly.
Often the LED burned out visually. For yes, send the comrade, sufficiently attentively, and from the result of the connection, with which the semiconductor crystal is flooded. The defective LED is often blackened from burning the crystal under the connection.

In the basin, burn out the LED matrix and can be identified by eye
How can we take a change
Contrary to the fact that the LEDs in the lighting modules are not labeled, it is not difficult even to recognize the technical type by their appearance and size.

Main types of SMD LEDs
Take two digits from the marking on some SMD LEDs and correspond to the length, and the second to the width on the semiconductor body. For example, SMD 3020 is sized for 3x2 mm cases.
A trace of a cato-scientific type, for sure, yes, they will determine the characteristics of a semiconductor device, and yes, they will intend an analogue. Vsichko izglezhda is simple, but ima is one serious problem. Our Chinese friends produce a lot of LEDs without names with standard sizes and markings, but crystal equipment with incredible performance.
For example, Chinese diodes are standard in size 3020 and have a power distribution - from a dozen to a hundred miles. It is often impossible to determine the real power of dori approximately by the size of the crystal for the layer at the junction that covers the crystal. It is possible to unambiguously determine the characteristics of the LED itself in a Markov lamp, produced from a well-known brand from a high-quality semiconductor.
How can I replace
When changing to an SMD LED, the main problem is to dissolve the burn. For yes, send a comrade, and if necessary, heat up two negative exits at the same time. For dismantling, use a special double soldering iron or sechoar, which is included in every decent station for soldering.

Soldering on the SMD element with the help of the station for soldering
Ima on-forest option. Behind him, there is a winding torch, an obiknoven poyanik and a brocade copper winding with a diameter of 1-2 mm. Navivame zhitsata on the vrha on the poyalnik, sharpen the edge, kalaydisvame and double the poyalnik is ready.

Soldering on the SMD element with a double-head home soldering iron
Natatk - a question on technology. Remove excessive calmness from the scarf, dot the curve on the solder with flux. Install new semiconductor on the spot, cato polarity spasm and go zapyavam with the help of a conventional soldering iron.
From the beginning of the conversation for LED lighting and technical repairs.Please, see if the information received is more useful and more helpful and repair the lampat yourself.
PreviousPolylei How let us choose ancient polyleiNextPolileyPolylayat remotely, not everything included - what is the reason and how can you fix it
